Eventually though, especially if you want to ride solo, you’ll need to learn the basics. Plus, it’s kind of fun! You’ll find many excellent how-to videos online — the ones by Park Tool are especially good — and some bike shops and outdoor retailers like REI offer in-person classes. You can learn the most important basics with a spare afternoon and a few tools.

It’s important to get your hands dirty and practice with your own bike. Just watching videos and reading articles won’t cut it when you’re attempting a repair beside the trail in the pouring rain as the sun is setting. So don’t be afraid to roll up your sleeves and spend some quality time with your bike!

In rough order of priority (start at the top and work down), here are the skills to focus on:

• Adjust seat post height, saddle tilt, and saddle forward/back position so that you’re the most comfortable on your bike and know how to tweak the saddle position when you’re on the road
• Clean and lube the chain to keep it rust-free and running smoothly
• Fix a dropped chain (one that has slipped off the chainrings or cogs)
• Remove and reinstall both wheels, which might be different with different types of bikes
• Patch and replace a punctured tube
• Set up, seal, and repair tubeless tires, if applicable
• Adjust derailleurs, both front and back
• Adjust and align brake pads, and eventually replace them
• Repair a broken or damaged chain

For basic maintenance, you’ll need a basic set of tools.

• Metric hex wrenches, particularly sizes 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm
• Masterlink tool and chain breaker for repairing a broken or damaged chain
• A floor pump
• Tube patches and an extra tube
• Tubeless puncture repair kit
• Chain tube and rags
• Tire levers

Ten Must-Have Bike Tools for the Home Mechanic

Once you’ve mastered those, move on to replacing brake and gear cables, repairing or replacing a broken spoke, and doing an emergency single-speed conversion in case of a damaged rear derailleur. You’ll be prepared for nearly anything!

For tools you might need on the road, check out our post on Bikepacking Gear: What to Take & How to Pack It.

The post Bike Repair Skills to Know Before Bikepacking appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

Choosing a Campsite

A good campsite is key to enjoying your evening, getting a good night’s sleep, and waking up feeling rested and recovered the next morning. Here’s what to look for.

Developed Campgrounds: Look for tent sites that won’t be surrounded by RVs, and avoid the sites next to and downwind of the restrooms.

Primitive Campgrounds: You’ll find primitive campgrounds throughout public land like US National Forests. They may be free or cheap (bring cash in small denominations) and may lack amenities like water or bathrooms. On busy weekends you’ll find them mostly populated with RVs.

Wild Camping: In areas like National Forests where dispersed camping is legal, you’re free to camp almost anywhere as long as you follow Leave No Trace principles. This type of camping is ideal for getting away from vehicles and enjoying solitude.

• If you’d like to avoid being seen from the road, look for sites hidden behind a rise, uphill from the road, or on the insides of curves where headlights won’t reach you.
• Avoid camping on private land, or if you must, ask for permission first.
• If you find yourself needing to “stealth camp” somewhere you’d rather not be noticed, make camp just before dark, leave around sunrise, and minimize light usage at night.

Whatever type of camping you’re doing, a great site is one that is:

• Flat and not likely to turn into a puddle if rain is expected
• Near a water source, though ideally not within 100 feet (camping too close to water pollutes the source and disturbs animals who come to drink).
• Previously used, or at least on a durable surface like dirt instead of delicate foliage
• Sheltered from wind
• Not in the bottom of a ravine or canyon in cold weather, as cold air tends to sink into these places overnight
• Not underneath dead branches or trees that could fall on your campsite

Camp Hygiene

It’s totally normal for hygiene standards to slip a bit while bikepacking. However, it’s important to keep certain personal areas clean to avoid saddle sores, urinary tract infections, and other unpleasant problems.

Change Clothes

As soon as you get to camp, change out of your cycling shorts and into something dry and breathable.

Wash Yourself

As you’re changing, give yourself a backcountry shower. Splash off your face, underarms, and especially your crotch and saddle areas; a squirt water bottle works well for this. Some people bring a little bottle of biodegradable soap or carry hygiene wipes. Wash at least 100 feet from natural water sources to avoid polluting them.

Wash Your Shorts

When you change out of your cycling shorts at camp, clean them so they’re ready for the next day. If you don’t have enough water for a full wash, at least rinse out the chamois and leave it to dry overnight. Many cyclists bring two pairs so they can let one dry the next day while wearing the other. Let your chamois dry thoroughly, ideally in sunlight, as often as possible to prevent bacteria growth.

UTI Prevention and Treatment

Going to the Bathroom

If camping is new for you and there’s no restroom at your site, you might be wondering how this bathroom thing is supposed to work. Let’s dispel the mystery.

To urinate, simply walk away from your campsite and any water sources and find a private place to go. Women will probably want to squat down. A squirt from a water bottle works well to clean yourself or you can bring toilet paper.

For solid waste, walk at least 200 feet from any water sources and dig a “cat hole” at least 8 inches deep using a rock, stick, or camping trowel. Squat down, do your business, then fill in the hole. The goal is to make it difficult for an animal to dig up or an unsuspecting camp mate to step in. Don’t forget to wash your hands with soap and water or sanitize with hand sanitizer.

Whatever you do, pack out all used toilet paper in a ziplock bag. Yes, really! Even if buried, it has a tendency to become unburied as animals dig it up or rain washes soil away, and nothing spoils a pristine place faster than used TP.

Washing Dishes

First, clean dishes by eating as much of the food scraps as you can. You carried all your food there, after all, so make the most of it! Then walk at least 200 feet away from your campsite and from water sources to rinse your dishes. You can even drink the rinse water if it’s palatable — it’s extra calories and very Leave No Trace friendly. Otherwise, disperse the rinse water over a wide area or dig a hole and bury it. Some people use a small amount of biodegradable soap for dishes, but it’s not strictly necessary.

Food and Wild Animals

Never feed wildlife. Even small, cute creatures like birds, squirrels, and mice will become aggressive towards future campers if they learn humans are a source of food. Remember that a “cute photo op” for you may lead to another camper’s nightmare or worse: every year, animals are killed by local authorities because they’ve become too aggressive towards humans. Keep animals and people safe by not feeding wildlife.

Dispose of food and packaging in proper campground receptacles or pack it out with you. Never litter or leave food bits around: it’s unsightly as well as dangerous to wildlife.

Avoid pests by keeping your campsite tidy and your food items all in one place. Most cyclists have a designated “food bag” that they keep in plain view during their evening meal and then inside their tent at night (unless you’re in bear country!). Don’t forget to check your stem bags or other snack spots for wrappers and half-eaten snacks before packing up the food at night.

Camping in Bear Country

Enjoy Campfires Responsibly

As wildfires grow increasingly common, many areas are imposing fire restrictions to make sure unsuspecting campers don’t accidentally set fire to the forest. Usually canister stoves are allowed for cooking, but alcohol or solid fuel stoves without shutoff valves may be off-limits if strict fire rules are in effect.

If you do make a legal campfire for cooking, warmth, or ambiance, do your best to minimize impact to the site and reduce risk of your fire growing out of control. Use an existing ring or build your fire on a durable surface like dirt or rock, and only gather wood if there is plenty to be found from fallen or dead trees. Never leave a fire unattended, and make sure it’s completely, 100% extinguished before going to bed.

Cooking over a Twig Stove

The post Camping Tips for Bikepacking appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

Water

You’ll want to sip water throughout the day to avoid dehydration. For many cyclists this means 2 or 3 big gulps every 20 minutes, or at least 3.5 liters of water every 5 hours. In especially hot climates you may need more, but don’t go crazy; it’s actually possible to drink too much water, especially if you don’t replenish electrolytes (more on this below). If water is limited, stretch your supply further by drinking a liter every time you fill up, camping near water whenever possible, riding at cooler times of the day, and using the bare minimum for washing and cooking.

Filtering Drinking Water

It’s easiest to fill up with potable water at restaurants, convenience stores, or campgrounds, but between these stops, bikepackers often need to drink from natural sources like streams or lakes … and sometimes less pristine sources like cattle tanks and muddy ponds.

Always filter or purify water from natural sources to avoid getting sick from waterborne pathogens like Giardia. A lightweight backpacking filter like the Sawyer Squeeze catches bacteria and parasites, which is sufficient in the US and other infrastructure-rich countries. In places where sanitation infrastructure is lacking, you’ll want a purification method — like UV radiation or chlorine dioxide drops — that deactivates viruses too.

Electrolytes

When we sweat, we lose electrolytes as well as water. These electrolytes (including sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and chloride) need to be replenished to avoid muscle cramps and keep your body healthy. Normally a balanced diet is enough, but in very hot weather you might need extra salty snacks or an electrolyte replacement drink.

Even if you’re drinking water and replenishing electrolytes, dehydration can sneak up on you in hot weather. If your urine is a dark color or if you’ve gone many hours without urinating at all, it’s time to take a break in the shade, drink water, and eat some healthy, salty snacks.

Food

Food is literally the fuel that keeps a bikepacker’s pedals spinning. But riding through remote areas with small bike bags and a big appetite presents some challenges. Some people pack all their food for the whole trip in advance, others cram their bags full of grab-and-go meals from convenience stores along the way. Choose the best strategy for your dietary needs, route location, and riding style.

Resupply Strategy

For a trip of around three days or less, it’s reasonable to carry all your food from the start. You might still research any towns along the way so you don’t miss an opportunity to stop for burgers and ice cream.

For longer trips, a common rhythm is to carry food for several days at a time, resupplying with whatever is available at towns along the way. This gives you less control over your diet, but takes pressure off the planning and packing process.

Many people mix these strategies, leaving home with a few dehydrated meals and some hard-to-find ingredients, and buying most snacks and staples along the way.

How Much Food?

Budget at least 3,000 calories per day, maybe closer to 4,000 for demanding trips, depending on your body and metabolism. Always keep a few emergency snacks tucked away, and it wouldn’t hurt to pack a full extra meal for each stretch in case of unexpectedly slow conditions.

Eating on a bikepacking trip is an all-day activity, so plan to get at least a third of your calories from snacks. Snack early and often; don’t wait until you’re feeling hungry or tired. An open bag of trail mix in a stem bag makes it easy to snack on the go.

To save weight and space, plan your menu precisely. Some people partition each meal and day of snacks into separate bags so they know exactly how much to eat and how much to save for tomorrow. Remove all unnecessary packaging, like outer boxes or wrappers, to save space and reduce the amount of trash you’ll need to pack out.

What to Eat

Nutrition

A healthy diet on a bike trip isn’t much different from a healthy diet at home; it’s just a bit harder to accomplish. You can generally “get away with” underpacking calories or overdoing junk food on a short trip, but over many days this can add up to low energy levels and negative health impacts.

It helps to think in terms of the three macronutrients: carbohydrates, fat, and protein. You may have heard that carbs or fat are “bad,” but that’s usually just a question of amount. We need them all, and especially when we’re getting lots of exercise there’s usually no reason to avoid them. Carbohydrates give us quick energy, fat gives us slower-burning fuel reserves, and protein helps our muscles grow and recover. Overdoing sugary processed food still isn’t the healthiest idea even while bikepacking, but if you do have a sweet tooth, there’s no better time to indulge a bit.

That said, nutrition science is always evolving and there are many ways to eat a healthy diet. If you know what works for your body, stick with it.

Food Availability

Your food options will depend on where you’re riding.

Small towns typically have a general store with basic snacks and grab-and-go meals, and perhaps a diner serving burgers and chicken strips. You’ll find plenty of jerky, chips, instant noodles, and microwave burritos, but don’t count on fresh veggies or your favorite brand (or any brand) of quinoa. Larger towns with grocery stores and fresh food may feel like paradise after a few days on the trail, but they also take more time and energy to navigate.

Space and Weight

Bikepackers usually try to pack the most calories into the smallest and lightest package possible. This means choosing foods that are:

• High in fat like trail mix, full-fat cheese, and nut butter
• Low in water content like couscous, instant noodles, or dehydrated backpacking meals
• Compact like trail mix and cheese rather than chips
• Durable like freeze dried versions of fruits and vegetables

To cook or not to cook?

A stove, pot, and fuel take up space and add weight, so think carefully before you decide to cook on your bikepacking trip. If you’ll be passing through towns once every couple days, it’s possible to eat a satisfying menu of no-cook snacks plus the occasional grab-and-go meal from a convenience store or restaurant.

Cooking is most appealing if you have specific dietary restrictions, your route has long distances between resupplies, or you really enjoy the process of cooking at camp. If a hot cup of coffee in the morning is all you really need, consider a lightweight solid fuel or alcohol stove.

Food Ideas

These foods can be found in many small grocery stores throughout the United States.

• Healthy no-cook snacks
• Hard aged cheese, wax-wrapped cheese, or string cheese
• Jerky, meat sticks, or salami
• Trail mix and nuts
• Nut butter
• Protein or energy bars (look for higher fat and lower sugar)
• Dark chocolate
• Hummus with tortillas
• Grab-and-go meals from convenience stores
• Frozen burritos (let them thaw in your bag during the day)
• Sandwiches
• Canned food (heavy but convenient and can be eaten cold)
• Cheese and salami with tortillas
• Quick-cooking meals available in most convenience stores, and secret ingredients to spice them up
• Instant oatmeal (add nuts and dried fruit)
• Ramen (add peanut butter and hot sauce — really!)
• Instant mac-and-cheese (add extra cheese, bacon bits, salami, or dried veggies to this and the next two)
• Couscous
• Instant mashed potatoes
• Ingredients to buy at home and add to meals along the way
• Powdered butter, coconut oil, cream, or other high-fat powder to mix into meals
• Powdered milk to add to oatmeal or instant coffee
• Freeze dried vegetables
• Dried bean flakes
• Spices and seasoning packets

Up Next: Camping: The Joyous Backbone to Bikepacking

The post Food and Water Strategies for Bikepacking appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

• Ride your bike often, stay active, and begin working up to longer rides. Check out our bikepacking training guide for more.
• Pick a bikepacking route and make a rough plan for camp locations, water refills, and food resupply stops.
• Make reservations for popular campgrounds and hotels, especially if you plan on riding during that region’s high season. Pro tip: If all the campgrounds are booked, consider dispersed camping.
• Arrange transportation for yourself and your bike.
• Talk to a medical professional about any health concerns.
• Start learning and practicing basic bike maintenance.

2 to 4 Weeks Before You Go:

• Acquire all the bikepacking gear you’ll need and start using it on training rides to dial in your packing system. Not sure what gear you’ll need? We’ve got you covered.
• Test any new camping gear to make sure you know how it works.
• Review the route, make a navigation plan and acquire maps or apps as needed. Call to verify business hours for any critical stops.
• Bike maintenance checkup: Go through essentials yourself or visit a bike shop for a tune up.
• Transition to riding terrain that’s similar to your intended bikepacking route, if you haven’t been already.
• Consider a fully loaded overnight shakedown ride.

Final 2 Weeks Before You Go:

• Download and prepare offline resources such as maps, route notes, emergency contact info, podcasts or music as desired.
• If you plan to bring a satellite messenger, make sure your subscription is active, sync messages and settings, and let your contacts know what to expect during your trip.
• Taper your training to let your body rest while staying active with gentle exercise.
• Do a final bike check: lube chain, adjust brake pads, review the tools and spares on your packing list.
• Prepare and pack any food you’ll be bringing.
• Watch the weather forecast and make last-minute adjustments to clothing and gear.
• Do a final complete test pack to make sure everything fits.
• Pack your bike for transport if needed.
• Charge electronics like power banks and lights.
• Get excited! Watch videos, read blogs, pore over maps, or whatever else you do to cultivate stoke.

Special Considerations

For longer trips, consider these additional steps:

• Arrange for someone to care for your pets, plants, or home.
• Put a hold on mail or arrange for it to be picked up.
• Fill any prescriptions you’ll need to take with you.
• Arrange bill payments in advance.

For international trips, consider these additional steps as early as possible: 

• Arrange flights, including bike transport via checked luggage or shipping.
• Check visa requirements and make arrangements.
• Visit a travel health clinic for vaccinations and other considerations.
• Make sure your passport will be valid for at least six months from the start of your trip.
• Consider travel insurance to protect your belongings and your health.
• Decide how you’ll get and carry local currency, especially where credit cards are not widely used.

The post The Complete Bikepacking Trip-Planning Checklist appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

Motor Vehicles

• Wear bright visible clothing.
• Use a flashing tail light and headlight.
• Consider a helmet mirror or handlebar mirror so you’re not surprised by traffic coming up behind you.
• Ride predictably and confidently, follow traffic laws, and signal turns with your arms.

Backcountry Safety

• Send a copy of your planned route to a friend or family member
• Carry appropriate clothing and shelter for the weather
• Have a backup navigation system
• Know where water sources are and monitor your water supply
• Ride within your skill limit on difficult terrain, and wear a helmet
• Consider carrying a satellite communication device in places without cell reception, and have a plan for how you’ll use it for both serious and less serious issues.

Using a Satellite Messenger

Animals

• If riding in grizzly country, bring bear spray and know how to use it.
• If riding in any kind of bear country, practice bear-safe cooking and food storage.
• Don’t approach or feed any kind of wild animal, even the cute little ones.
• In places with snakes or scorpions, keep an eye out while setting up camp or wandering off-trail, give them a wide berth, and shake out your shoes in the morning.
• Domestic dogs may bark and chase as you pass their territory. You can squirt them with a water bottle, yell in a deep voice, or get off the bike and walk, but reaching the edge of their territory is usually the best way to be free of them.

Personal Safety

• Still, feeling vulnerable really takes the fun out of bikepacking, so it’s worth considering these tips for avoiding trouble and, much more realistically, improving your own peace of mind:
• Choose wild campsites that are not visible from the road and not in the path of passing headlights (avoid the outsides of curves).
• Use common sense when sharing information about your route and camping plans with people you don’t know well.
• Some people carry a self-defense item, like pepper spray or a loud alarm, which can help with peace of mind even though you’ll most likely never use it.

When Fear is Just Fear

Dealing With Other People’s Fear

The post Safety Concerns for Bikepackers appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

Build a Base by Riding Often

Cycling Form Tips

Efficient Cycling Techniques

Build Endurance by Riding Longer

Build Skills on Specific Terrain

Technical Riding Tips for Beginners

Strength, Mobility, and General Fitness

Lower body and glutes

Core

Upper body

Mobility

General fitness

Other Factors

Altitude

Heat and Humidity

Conclusion

The post Training for Your Bikepacking Trip appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

• Bring less stuff! Ask yourself “What would happen if I didn’t bring this?” If the answer is unremarkable, then leave it at home.
• Repackage consumables like toiletries, food, and chain lube into smaller containers and remove extra packaging.
• Don’t sweat personal hygiene. Though it’s smart to keep saddle-related areas clean to avoid chafing or infection, it’s normal to let other standards slip a bit.
• Use gear for multiple purposes: eat directly out of your pot, sleep with your head on a stuff sack full of clothes, use a spare sock as a camp towel, and dig your bathroom cathole with a tent stake.
• Look to the lightweight (or even ultralight) backpacking community for more ideas.

Clothing for Bikepacking

• Base layers: this is what you’ll be riding in when the weather is warm. Choose fabrics that dry fast and pull moisture away from your skin. Avoid cotton in favor of synthetics or merino wool.
• Mid layers: long sleeve shirt and tights for extra warmth and/or sleeping.
• Insulated jacket: for evenings and chilly mornings, or to sleep in on cold nights. High quality down is the warmest and lightest, but synthetic or fleece can also work.
• Rain protection: waterproof breathable rain jacket and pants, and perhaps waterproof shoe covers. Rain gear also takes the edge off wind-chill on cold descents.
• Extras: gloves, warm hat or hood, and warm socks for sleeping.

Camping Gear

• As with bikepacking bags, eBay and Craigslist are good places to find deals on quality used backpacking gear. You could also try borrowing from friends who may have a tent or sleeping bag sitting in their garage, or asking your riding partners if they have any extra gear to share.
• Tent or other shelter: A lightweight tent that is freestanding is ideal for bikepacking because it can be pitched anywhere, even on rocky ground or concrete. Tarps are lighter but limit potential camping locations, as do hammocks. Bivvy sacks are lightest but offer less privacy and space and tend to collect condensation.
• Sleeping bag or quilt: A quality down sleeping bag — or even better, its lightweight cousin the sleeping quilt — will serve you well on outdoor adventures of all kinds. Synthetic insulation is cheaper than down, but heavier and less compact for the same warmth.
• Sleeping pad: Accordion-fold backpacking pads work better than you might expect for bikepacking. They’re cheap and lightweight, and while they definitely won’t fit in your saddle bag, they strap easily to its top, or to your handlebars. If you need more comfort and/or warmth, look to lightweight inflatable pads.
• Cooking system: Check resupply options carefully before packing a bulky cook system. If you’ll be passing a town once every day or two it’s easy to fuel with grab-and-go town food and no-cook staples like cold ramen or cheese and salami. If you can’t resupply often or require hot coffee in the morning, consider a compact alcohol stove which doesn’t require a bulky fuel canister.

Water: Carrying and Purifying

Electronics and Charging

Gear Essentials Checklist

Clothing for Riding

• Bike shorts (1-2 pair)
• Shirt (1-2, lightweight merino wool is smell-resistant)
• Underwear (1-2)
• Socks (2 pairs)
• Buff or bandana
• Sun sleeves or long-sleeve shirt for sun protection
• Clothing for Cold, Rain, and Sleeping
• Tights or long underwear
• Long sleeve midlayer shirt
• Puffy jacket
• Waterproof breathable rain jacket
• Rain pants
• Waterproof shoe covers
• Warm gloves
• Waterproof mittens
• Warm hat or hood

Cycling Accessories

• Shoes to bike and walk in
• Bike gloves
• Helmet
• Helmet mirror (helpful if route includes any busy roads)
• Tail light
• Head light (even if you don’t plan to ride at night)
• High visibility flag or vest (for routes with busy roads)
• Lightweight bike lock (depending on route)

Electronics

• Navigation device
• Charging cables and wall charger
• Power bank(s)
• Satellite emergency messenger like SPOT or Garmin InReach (if desired)
• Spare batteries

Water and Food

• Hydration bladder(s) and/or bottle(s)
• Water filter or purification method
• Bowl and spoon or spork
• Stove, fuel, and pot (optional, depends on route)
• Bag and cord for animal-safe food storage (where needed)

Camping

• Shelter
• Sleeping bag or quilt
• Sleeping pad
• Headlamp

Miscellaneous

• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen
• Chapstick with sunblock
• Chamois cream (as needed)
• Bug repellent (as needed)
• Toiletries (minimal and repackaged into small containers)
• Toilet paper, and plastic bag to pack out used
• Hand sanitizer
• Biodegradable soap in small bottle and/or hygiene wipes
• Ziplock bags or dry sacks in various sizes
• Lightweight sandals
• Maps and route notes
• Wallet with ID, and cash in small denominations for campgrounds if needed

Safety

• Small first aid kit
• Metallic space blanket (for emergencies or to supplement sleeping bag in cold weather)
• Lighter and fire starter (for cooking or emergencies)
• Bear spray (only in grizzly areas)

Tools and Spare Parts

• Chain lube (in small bottle) and rag
• Bike multitool with chain breaker
• Tire levers
• Spare tube(s)
• Patch kit
• Tire boot
• Extra sealant (if tubeless)
• Tire repair plugs (if tubeless)
• Blue Loctite for loose bolts
• Spare cleat and blots (if using SPD shoes)
• Chain masterlinks and masterlink pliers
• Leatherman with pliers and knife
• Zip ties
• Tape (duct, gorilla, electrical) — wrap a few turns around a lighter or part of frame
• Depending on trip length, bike, remoteness, etc:
  • Spare brake and shift cables
  • Spare brake pads
  • Spare section of chain
  • Spare spokes
  • Extra straps for gear failure or on-the-fly luggage rearranging
  • Needle and strong thread or dental floss for tire repair (if tubeless)

The Packing Puzzle

• Do a practice pack well in advance. The night before your trip is a bad time to realize your sleeping quilt doesn’t fit in your handlebar bag without blocking your shift levers.
• After your practice pack, take a practice ride. Notice how your loaded bike handles and whether that overstuffed frame bag grazes your knees. Even better, practice your packing and camping setup too: ride to a friend’s house and camp in their backyard.
• Pack heavy things low and close to the middle of the bike to keep it handling nimbly. The frame bag, down tube, and front fork are best for heavy things like water, tools, and electronics.
• Pack items you’ll need during the day in easy-to-reach places, and bury things you won’t need until camp.
• Remove stuff sacks and compress soft gear and clothing directly into every nook and cranny of your bikepacking bags.
• Waterproof key gear like electronics, warm layers, and your sleeping bag. Many bikepacking bags are supposedly waterproof, but if in doubt, line them with a kitchen trash bag and enclose electronics in ziplock baggies.
• Can’t find the right place for a bulky tent? Split it into pieces, strapping poles to your downtube and stuffing the rest into a seat bag or handlebar bag.
• Arrange your “cockpit” for convenience, including easy access to on-the-go snacks. If your handlebar bag leaves no space for a bike computer, light, or other handlebar-mounted gizmos, consider a bar extender.
• Rough trails have a way of separating gear from bikes. If you attach items like stuff sacks, camp shoes, or a jacket to the outside of your bags, be sure to tether them securely if you want to see them again. And secure all buckles or straps.

The post Bikepacking Gear: What to Take & How to Pack It appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

Bikepacking Bags

Other Bits and Pieces

Racks and Panniers

A Rack Primer

Backpacks and Hip Packs

Creative Combinations

Where to Buy Gear and Find Deals

What to Bring & How to Pack It

The post Bikepacking Gear: The Bags appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

With so many possible combinations of rider, terrain, and bike, there is no one right bikepacking setup. Part of the fun is in getting creative, solving the puzzle, and personalizing your bike and gear to suit your own riding style and budget.  

Types of Bikes for Bikepacking 

While you can ride any terrain on nearly any bike, matching the bike to its favorite type of terrain will inspire confidence, ease long days in the saddle, and increase the fun factor. 

Mountain bikes are full of features to make trail riding more comfortable and fun: big knobby tires for traction, wide handlebars for control and stability, and often a suspension system to take the bite out of bumps.  

Full suspension mountain bikes: The burliest of bikes designed for the most rugged of trails, these have a suspension in both front and rear to absorb the impact of aggressive trail riding. The downsides for bikepacking are significant: they’re heavier, more complex, more expensive, and more limited in cargo space. You’ll mostly see full-suspension bikepacking rigs on singletrack-heavy routes like the Colorado Trail. 

Hardtail / front suspension mountain bikes: Common, versatile, and suited to a wide range of budgets, hardtails have a suspension fork in front to absorb bumps. A rigid rear maximizes cargo space and keeps the bike lighter, simpler, and more versatile than a rear suspension. They work well on a variety of bikepacking routes, but they’re less efficient than fully rigid bikes on smooth ground. Their sweet spot is moderate singletrack and chunky jeep roads. 

Rigid mountain bikes: Rigid mountain bikes have flat bars and frame geometry resembling hardtails but without the front suspension. They usually rely on plus-size tires, usually 2.8” or wider, to absorb bumps and provide traction. Since they’re often designed with bikepacking in mind, they encourage a comfortable riding posture and come with plenty of mounts for racks and gear. They’re ideal for many types of bikepacking, especially moderate dirt and gravel roads, routes with a broad range of terrain, or long overseas tours where a low-maintenance ride is important. 

Drop bar mountain bikes: This growing category, exemplified by the classic Salsa Fargo, connects the dots between rigid mountain bikes and gravel bikes. The defining feature is drop-style handlebars that flare outward at the ends offering similar hand positions to road bikes but with better control and stability. They fit wide plus-size tires and are usually designed for loaded riding and long days. They’re a great choice for riders who love gravel and dirt roads with occasional singletrack mixed in. 

Gravel bikes: Gravel bikes bring the speedy ethos of road riding to dirt. Compared to road bikes they offer more stable geometry, wider tire clearance, more durable frames, wider and lower gearing, and sometimes wider flared drop bars. Compared to mountain bikes they’re lighter, less agile, and encourage a more forward-leaning posture. They’re a great choice for riders seeking one bike for both pavement and well-maintained unpaved roads, but they won’t inspire much confidence on rougher terrain like jeep roads or singletrack. 

eBikes: Thanks to recent advances in battery technology, the pedal-assist eBike is now a practical way to make bikepacking accessible to more people. Land access rules for eBikes can vary, so check if they’re permitted before planning your ride. 

The bike you already have: You’ll hear it often, even from bikepacking veterans: the best bike for your trip is the bike in your garage. In the scrappy and self-reliant world of bikepacking, the spirit of “run what you brung” isn’t just tolerated, it’s admired. 

Pre-Trip Bike Maintenance Check Up 

What to Look For 

Whether you’re shopping for a brand new ride or making a few upgrades to a bike you already own, here are the biggest factors to consider. 

Frame Material 

Any frame material will work, and budget is often the determining factor, but if you’re seeking a bikepacking-focused rig, it’s worth considering some pros and cons. 

Steel is a solid choice, literally and figuratively, for its strength, affordability, ride comfort, and relative ease of repair. They’re very common in bikepacking and a great choice for almost any type of riding, but they especially excel under rugged conditions, heavy loads, and the demands of multi-country tours. 

Aluminum bike frames are usually the most affordable option, and often a bit lighter than steel. They tend to have a harsher feel on bumpy surfaces. Aluminum is slightly more prone to breaking under unusually high stress and harder to repair than steel. Aluminum can be a great material for affordable hardtails in particular, since the front suspension compensates for the stiffer material.  

Carbon bike frames are appreciated for their lighter weight and vibration-absorbing comfort, but these benefits come with a hefty price tag and weight limits. Carbon is common among road and gravel bikes, but within the bikepacking world, it’s used mainly by riders focused on long-distance self-supported racing. 

Titanium frames are very strong, corrosion-resistant, and a comfortable ride, but they’re also quite expensive. Titanium bikes are relatively uncommon and mainly used by bikepackers seeking a premium frame that’s more durable than carbon. 

Wheel Size 

Two wheels that roll are all you really need, but wheel size does have some nuance. Mountain bike wheels are typically 26”, 27.5”, or 29” diameter, while road and many gravel bike wheels are labeled 650c or 700c. Note that 650c is the same diameter as 27.5”, and likewise for 700c / 29”, though the road equivalents tend to have narrower rim widths. 

Which wheel size is best for bikepacking? It depends on how you like to ride and, especially for shorter riders, how you plan to carry your gear. Small frames with large 29er wheels often lack clearance for seat bags and handlebar bags, which is an important consideration for those wanting to run a traditional bikepacking bag setup. 

For everyone else, the difference between 27.5" and 29" wheels is a minor matter of handling. In general, 29ers feel slightly more stable and excel at maintaining forward momentum, while 27.5” wheels feel a bit more responsive and quick to accelerate.  

Traditionally 26” wheels were considered the global standard, favored by long-distance riders who might need to replace a wheel in a far-away land. These days standards are evolving, many bike components are available globally.    

Tires 

Tires are one of the easiest things to change, and one of the most important factors in handling and ride comfort on varied terrain. Tires designed for off-pavement use are wider and have knobbier tread for a smoother ride and better traction on dirt. 

Most bikepacking routes roll well on 2” or wider tires, with rougher technical routes or loose sand providing a good excuse for even beefier 2.5” or wider “plus” tires. Look for tires designed for gravel riding or mountain biking. Avoid lightweight racing-focused models in favor of durable tires that can stand up to long, loaded rides.  

Your frame and rims will constrain your tire options. Fork clearance and rim width limit how wide you can go, and the tire diameter must match your wheel size.  

If tubeless-compatible rims are an option, we definitely recommend them. A tubeless setup is highly puncture resistant and allows lower tire pressure for improved traction and comfort. You can tackle the tubeless setup at home with a bit of patience or your local mechanic can do it. Going tubeless isn’t strictly necessary unless you do a lot of riding in the desert, where cactus spines and thorns can have you patching tubes left and right.  

Brakes 

Most modern mountain bikes use disc brakes, either hydraulic or mechanical. Hydraulic disc brakes are more expensive and feel a tad more responsive, but well-adjusted mechanical disc brakes work very well and are simpler to maintain. Rim brakes, though a bit less confidence-inspiring on technical descents, are perfectly effective for many types of bikepacking.   

Whichever type of brakes you have, the top of a big descent is a bad time to realize your brake pads are worn or poorly adjusted. Have a bike shop look them over before your first trip. It’s also well worth learning how to check, adjust, and replace the pads yourself, and it’s not as difficult as it might seem. 

Gears 

Hit your first steep dirt climb on a loaded bike and you’ll understand why bikepacking rigs tend to have low gearing. This means the number of teeth on your front chainrings and rear cassette allow you to pedal with (relative) ease while climbing a steep hill. They also tend to have a wide range, meaning you’ll have many gears to choose from. 

Wide and low gearing is helpful on routes with lots of climbing. But if your bike isn’t designed with this in mind or you ride mostly in flat areas, no worries, you can just get off and walk the occasional steep sections. Gear range can usually be modified up to a point, so if your bike lacks a low enough “granny gear,” ask your local bike shop to recommend options. 

Saddle 

Saddle (dis)comfort might be the most infamous topic in long-distance cycling. A bit of tenderness is expected on long days, but escalating saddle sores on a multi-day trip are torture. Often the stock saddle on a new bike is intended to be replaced by the rider’s preferred model, so don’t be surprised if it’s not right for you. 

To improve your odds of a pleasant trip, you’ll need to find a saddle that fits your body and do a few long test rides to uncover any lurking issues. Comfort depends on bone structure, riding posture, and individual anatomy. Try to find a bike shop that will let you test ride a few, and make sure your seat position is adjusted properly, otherwise no saddle in the world will be good enough.

Saddle Swap: Guide to a Good Fit

Cargo and Gear Mounts 

Bikes designed for bikepacking often have mounting bolts in all the right places, but this is far from essential. Most bikepacking bags attach directly to the frame rather than on mounts. If you do need to mount a bottle cage to your frame without bolts, electrical tape or hose clamps can work wonders. 

Handlebars 

Mountain bikes usually have wide flat handlebars because they offer the best control on rough terrain. Some bikepackers find this hand position uncomfortable for long rides and prefer the flexibility of drop bars, especially the wider flared models designed for off-pavement adventures.  

Slapping flat MTB-style bars on a road bike often leads to awkward geometry and requires different shifters and brakes, but flared “dirt drop” handlebars are an easy swap and greatly improve stability. 

Pedals 

If you currently ride with platform pedals, they’re perfect for bikepacking. On longer trips and/or especially rugged terrain, it’s important to have shoes you can walk in.  

If you already ride with SPD / clipless pedals, you can use them for bikepacking with a couple considerations. Most bikepackers prefer the 2 bolt MTB style, which has recessed cleats allowing for (almost) normal walking. Single-sided SPD pedals (click-in on one side, platform on the other) offer the flexibility to ride unclipped on tough terrain, or in your camp sandals in hot weather.  

Maintenance 

If sprucing up your own bike or buying a used one, it’s worth visiting a local mechanic for a quick inspection and tune-up. They’ll hopefully catch any lurking issues that could disrupt your ride, and might be able to suggest some small modifications that could make a big difference for bikepacking. 

Bike Alignment 

Take the time to adjust seat height and tilt, as well as forward-backward position, with the help of an online guide or preferably a local bike shop. You might also consider raising the handlebars or at least tilting the brake hoods backward on road or gravel bikes to allow a more comfortable upright posture. Small adjustments can make a huge difference in comfort. 

Where to Buy 

There are deals to be had on eBay and Craigslist, and enthusiast forums around the internet feature lively classifieds sections, but it’s hard to beat a local bike shop (LBS). Find a good one and you have a partner in adventure, a trusted mechanic, and — in many cases — a like-minded community of riders orbiting around the shop. No LBS in your neck of the woods? Direct-to-consumer options are widespread and offer very competitive pricing, though they can’t help you out when assembly, maintenance, or random advice is required.  

Renting a Bike 

If you’re still shopping around, saving money for a purchase, or don’t want to transport your bike to a faraway place, renting is a great option. Near popular routes or mountain bike trails, you can often find bike shops that rent by the day; a few even rent bikepacking-specific bags and gear too.

Where To Rent A Bicycle On Your Travels

This is a great way to try out different bikes and gear before buying. Be sure to ask about frame size, cargo mounting options, and tools and spares, and bring your own saddle if you have one you like. 

Bikepacking Gear: The Bags 

The post Picking the Right Bike for Bikepacking appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

A good backcountry navigation system includes two things:

• Your intended route and where you are along it.
• “Big picture” map showing nearby roads and trails, landmarks, and topographic features and how they connect to the surrounding area. This is for finding the nearest main road in case of a problem, planning a shortcut if you get behind schedule, or answering the question, “What’s that cool thing over there, and should we take a detour to go see it?” 

Anyone with a smartphone can cover both these bases for free or very cheap with some simple GPS navigation and mapping apps. Sometimes you’ll even be able to see the elevation profile and locations of water sources, camping, and services along the way. 

Whichever navigation system you choose, consider these important tips:

• Don’t expect to find road signs or people to ask for directions.
• Bring a backup navigation system in case your primary gets wet, broken, or lost.
• Download everything you might need — GPX files, overview maps, route notes, etc. — before starting your trip so you can navigate without any phone or data service.

Devices and Apps

If you’re riding an Adventure Cycling route, we’ve compiled everything you need into handy paper map sets. They include route maps, service directories, and elevation profiles. The maps have turn by turn directions, a route line to follow, and services.

There are several free or low-cost smartphone apps which can import GPX route tracks and download maps for offline navigation. Ride with GPS is a common and convenient choice, since many route designers publish their maps via the platform, but it doesn’t provide detailed maps of the surrounding area. Backcountry Navigator and Gaia GPS are two other popular options that provide both GPS route navigation and offline map tiles for larger areas. The Maps.me and Google Maps apps both offer downloadable maps of major roads, useful in case you need to reroute or change plans. 

Smartphone apps are a great way to get started quickly and cheaply, but they’ll drain your battery faster than usual so be sure to carry an extra power bank (or two). They’re also surprisingly vulnerable to the rigors of backcountry travel, so keep them safe in a case or bag to protect against water, dust, and impact.

Avid bikepackers sometimes invest in a dedicated GPS device like a Garmin or Wahoo Elemnt, usually mounted on the handlebars. These provide similar functionality to smartphone apps but are more sturdy, waterproof, and have better battery life. 

Paper Maps

Paper maps are best used to supplement GPS navigation. Backcountry roads and trails are rarely marked with signs, so while a map will show the route, that’s not very helpful unless you know where you are along it. That said, a paper map can be just the thing for understanding the big picture and making route adjustments on the fly.

Picking the Right Bike for Bikepacking
 

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